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Season to Season

January: The Winter Doldrums - Take 1

Well folks, the winter doldrums are in and that means there's not a lot available to us here in the Northwest that is local. In fact, on my radar grid I see less than 10 fruits and veggies typically in season in the region at this time of year. So I say 'Take One,' because this will be a three-parter that runs into March to help you make it to April when shelves start filling up with local varieties once again. It's a great opportunity to discuss some things you didn't know about foods from outside the area. Take this for instance...

Bananas - Organic versus Regular: The rule when buying organics is don't feel like you have to unless the food is a member of the dirty dozen. These are foods that are exposed to pesticides on their skins which you eat whole like apples, peaches and berries. You get the idea - right? OK, so bananas don't fall into the category. You peel the skin, compost it and eat the inside. I'm a single guy. Buying a regular rack of bananas and storing it at my house (it would take me about 2 weeks to eat six bananas myself) means they'll go bad in that time. That's not been the case with organic bananas, so I want you to try a little experiment next time you go shopping. Buy one regular and one organic banana about the same in color (it's best to buy them yellow with just a touch of green left in the peel). Mark them and let them sit on the counter, each day noting the changes in the peel. My money is on the organic to last longer. Brown in a banana peel is a sign the sugar in the fruit wants out. It's still okay to eat it, even if it's all brown, but they do get a little gooey by then - right?

Speaking of Bananas: Plantains are a tartly, earthy twist on bananas and they don't taste very good raw. But you can slice them up and pan fry them in a little ghee (clarified butter). Ghee is a grand and healthier substitute for butter and you'll find it at better grocery stores. Simply take about two teaspoons, warm it at medium and drop the sliced plantains into the pan. Pan fry them until golden brown which is a sign the sugar has pushed through the fruit, allowing the heat in to soften the interior which makes them taste much better (just the way we discussed grilling vegetables in foil until they caramelize last November). For an added treat, add a little balsamic vinegar at the end just before you serve them.

Honeygold Grapefruit: They come from South Texas for the most part and are great for cooking. They're recommended by everyone around from Skagit farmers to PCC. Metropolitan Market has a nifty recipe for cooking up some cod with Honeygolds. Good grief, we Northwesterners know how to latch on to other regions' good stuff when we can't get our own.

Let's go Mediterranean: You know what's so great about a lot of Mediterranean foods? They're more often available than not. Dried fruits, nuts, dried meats, couscous, sun dried tomatoes and so on. Longing for summer? Have a Mediterranean feast of your own and invite your friends. Imagine you're on the Riviera one day or night and splurge. Imagine you're in Africa and eat like the locals.

One of the most memorable meals I ever had was in the dead of winter at Serafina, when then executive chef Dylan Giordan had discovered a southern Italian dish based on North African ingredients. Remember, the Italians have been trading with North Africa for eons. I remember the dish well; a half chicken fully boned over couscous with raisins and dried apricots and some North African spices tossed in for good measure.

Your homework assignment this month is to do a little prodding around on the web at North African cooking, then come up with your own recipe - 'cause that Serafina one is under wraps!

Continuing favorites: Blood oranges. I discussed them in December. They are really good and available now.  

Meanwhile back at home: Okay, glad you stuck it out this long. I'm now ready to transport you back home.

The fishing guys have been busy catching steelhead trout and you're invited. Unlike landlocked trout, the flesh is orange like a salmon and they are legitimately part of the salmon family. Go visit better fish departments and make sure what you get was caught local and wasn't farmed.  

BTW - whenever you dine out, feel free to ask your server where something came from. They owe that to you. You'd be surprised what you find out. Vietnamese shrimp isn't uncommon if a restaurant is buying from a megalamonster like FSA or Sysco. I've found I don't care for the taste, but some folks will like it.

December was the last crack at locally-caught crab for a while. If you're at one of the better fish markets like Mutual Fish or Uwajimaya, there may be some still on ice. Just ask.

Wash your fruits and veggies well and we'll see you next month!

List of where Mr. Mehren is shopping these days

Here's a list of where I'm shopping mostly these days. It's a good way to find fresh local goods and support local businesses. Plus, I can't find my favorite bacon at most SUPER Markets. And just what is that bacon? Applegate Organic.

  • Ken's Market - Queen Anne, Greenwood
  • Central Market, Shoreline
  • Ballard Market, Ballard
  • PCC, Greenlake

Tom Mehren/January 2015


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