Cowiche Canyon Kitchen + Ice House

Celebrating Yakima's Agrarian Roots

A global community producing a quarter of a billion dollars in fruit and technology annually; a level of sophistication people aren't aware of. This is Yakima. Surprised? Get over it (and the pass) and experience what's happening. Cowiche Canyon Kitchen + Ice House is one of the signs of the times. Cool vibe; simple, delicious food; cocktails made with local ingredients; great private party venue.

Qwners Graham Snyder and Mark DiPietro are excited about what's happening. "Yakima's reputation has not been good, and we have a self-esteem problem," states Graham. "But if you look carefully, you'll see the writing on the wall. In the next 24-60 months, it's going to be so exciting here. We're redefining the culture and setting up our future." The restaurant is part of the large scale change. "We purchased a vacant lot downtown and built the restaurant. The idea was to modernize a fruit warehouse to celebrate the backbone of the area."

Food is sourced as locally as possible. "We're seasonal and have six acres in the West Valley that we're not using all of yet. We started it for menu support but it's turned out to be so rewarding. We don't have organic certification, but don't use pesticides. I have a baby daughter who runs through the basil, she's probably our biggest pest. Our new chef Cameron Slaugh is already planning future menus and planting accordingly."

Locals come frequently and give feedback. "We have to navigate through that to see what we want to do to keep guests happy and still move forward. That's not a problem for me or Chef, that's a problem for Mark," laughs Graham. "We wouldn't be nearly so successful without him." "We learn something new every day," says Mark. "I've learned so much from Graham about focusing on the agricultural aspect. It's about the simplicity of putting great, high quality food on the table. Our prime rib dip sandwich is a great example. We bake our own bread, slice the beef off the prime rib right out of the oven, to order, create a great au jus, and pair it with our frites. It's simple with complexity behind it. Our whole menu has this same aspect."

Cocktails get just as much attention. A long-time friend of Graham's, Vincenzo Marianella, consults. "His reputation is the godfather of the cocktail rebirth in L.A. years ago, and he's all about fresh, fresh, fresh," explains Graham. "We juice everything in our cold press juicer. Ingredients come from local farms. We were the first in Yakima to have 2x2 ice cubes, and have unique liquors. When we started, local artisans came out of the woodwork; people who make bitters in Eastern Washington. It's like having a library where you share ideas."

Photo of Icehouse

Graham was born in Yakima, and grew up in Blaine County, Idaho. He left for L.A. the day he graduated high school, and owned his first restaurant at 22. "Permitting was so ridiculous that people started bootleg restaurants: no permits, no liquor licenses. I bought one, legitimized it, and called it Osteria La Buca, a country Italian tavern. It's still there. When my wife and I had a son, we said 'not in L.A.' I wanted my kids to grow up around dirt, fresh air, and where there are consequences to actions. You don't get away with much in a small town."

Graham's grandfather had Snyder's Bread in Yakima and his memories are of Snyder's being part of the community. "People had Snyder's bread and Coca Cola in their refrigerators," he recalls. "My dad owned restaurants. We never worked together, but Cowiche Canyon is a result of all our conversations. Mark worked with my dad for 26 years. He called Mark and barely asked the question before Mark said 'yes!' to working with us. Mark has totally integrated us into the community. Within 2-3 months of being open, we made Mark an owner."

Mark has been working restaurants for 40 years, including the one he owned for five years in Yakima, the Bushwhacker. "We went from a steak/seafood house to a casual concept, then sold it. I worked with Mike at Red Robin for 26 years. After leaving Red Robin, I did a few things, including managing the Yakima Country Club for three years. I had met Graham a few times, and when Mike called, I was in. It's the best thing that's ever happened to me."

Graham knew Cameron through Osteria. and came to Yakima after an eight-month process. He grew up in Utah, attended the French Culinary Institute in New York (now the International Culinary Center), worked at restaurants in New York like 11 Madison Park, then moved to L.A. A bet between Graham and his Osteria partner is what got Cameron to Yakima in the beginning. "I came up to help out, stayed 2-3 days, looked at systems and food," says Cameron. "I came back for a pop-up dinner in January 2016, and again in March or April. I moved here in June. People were a draw, the realism of the place, and the support of the community. Plus, it's such an opportunity. Yakima is a blank canvas; people are looking for something new. We're doing handmade pasta with Tieton Creamery cheese, and things like handmade ricotta."

With their second year more successful than their first, they are working toward a new restaurant with a different concept. No name yet, and ground will probably be broken in September or October, across the parking lot from Cowiche. They'll move bakery operations there and build a dry aging room. There will be interaction between kitchen and guests with a 17-seat chef's counter right in the kitchen. Like Cowiche, you can count on seasonal, simple, delicious food.

Come experience the new Yakima.

Cowiche Canyon Kitchen + Ice House
202 E Yakima Ave
Yakima, WA 98901
509-457-2007

www.cowichecanyon.com

Photos courtesy of Cowiche Canyon

Connie Adams/October 2016