Seattle's Fairmont Olympic

Chef Gavin Stephenson oversees the next evolution

With its lengthy history in Seattle, the Fairmont Olympic is still like any other hotel-it needs to reinvent itself periodically to remain relevant. And while Seattle-ites love a high-end hotel and fine dining, we like it to fit our culture which tends to be more casual. How do you take a property steeped in history, pay tribute to what the building is, and make it approachable for the next generation of customers?

The hotel just finished a $25 million renovation of rooms and pool/fitness center (click here). Meanwhile, Chef Gavin Stephenson, who has a long history at this property (click here), is overseeing the food side of things. His team handles The Terrace lounge, Shuckers, The Georgian Restaurant, afternoon tea, in-room dining, and 25,000 square feet of banquet space, including approximately two weddings each week. "There's a perception that we are high-end, opulent, maybe overpriced," says Gavin. "That hurts you now. Fairmont has been trying to get away from that 'special occasion only' for some time. We've recently made a change to The Georgian: we're open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea, but not dinner. As our evolution continues, we'll reprogram that space into a more relevant concept, while respecting its integrity." They don't want to take a beautiful, historic room like The Georgian and put something in that doesn't make sense. The atmosphere has to work with the food and service, the "what" of a restaurant as Gavin sees it. "People have gravitated to this hotel because of what it offered; we want the millennials to feel the same way, and we continue to build on that. You have to look at who we are as a city and what's important to us: Lincoln Park in West Seattle vs. condos along the shore, preserving the downtown waterfront, and what we're doing with the Pike Market through the Market Foundation. I want us to be part of that great story."

Shuckers, originally a haberdashery in the 1930s, has carved oak paneling and a tin ceiling. It has been the more approachable restaurant at the hotel, with quality, sustainable product. "We look to our guests to tell us what they want. This is a family restaurant, so even if I think sea urchin ice cream is great, it wouldn't be on this menu. And we do the responsible thing in terms of sustainability. We serve 400,000 meals a year at this hotel. If you think about one fish, say steelhead, and the fact that we won't serve farmed fish, that kind of volume can hurt the steelhead population. So while guests may tell us they want steelhead, I can't provide it, knowing that the next generation won't be able to get it at all."

Gavin has overseen a number of iterations over the years, especially since his return to the hotel as executive chef in 1999. "At that time, the culinary condition of the kitchen had disintegrated. It needed renovation, the food was dated, and concepts were old. I have a different approach to food: if it's not broken, break it. You have to stay engaged. We change all the menus four times a year; we know what dishes work and what we can do better. If it's a dog, I say get rid of it; I don't hang onto things. Some of the greatest successes have come from guests and employees. We involve people; these aren't single-minded decisions. I'm the liaison between the owner and customers. My skill is coming up with great nightmares," laughs Gavin. In 2010, $2.5 million went into the new kitchen.

One of Fairmont's strengths is being clear about their values and empowering staff to act upon them. Despite the luxury label, you'll find staff to be warm and friendly at any Fairmont hotel. "When Fairmont took over this hotel in 2003, I interviewed with the then CEO, the corporate food and beverage person, and the HR director. I asked the HR director why in the first two interviews, they talked only about the Fairmont's values. She said it was because they live it, it's not something on a poster. That sold me on Fairmont-values are a big driver for me. The greatest moments in my career have been when someone on my staff gets promoted and takes it to a new level." He's started taking hotel employees (from any department) on Market tours. "Every employee talks with guests, and they should understand how we use the Market and what our food is about."

Five or more years ago, Gavin decided to bring honey bees to the roof of the hotel. He connected with Corky Luster of Ballard Bee Company, who has mentored Gavin on how to successfully care for hives. "We got the hives and had each department paint them; everyone was really into it. One day I get a call and Corky says 'I'm here' and he's in the elevator with bees. I raced down and the hotel's GM is in the elevator with him. I'm thinking I'm in big trouble. Instead, the three of us went up to the roof together. Bees aren't as easy as you might think. I've killed a lot of bees, but I'm much less dangerous now, and am mentoring other people around the city, and have bees at home, too. You have to inspect without disturbing, and that's a skill you have to develop. Beekeeping is fun and heartbreaking. We've had early warm temperatures, then a cold snap, and bees have died. Just today, one of the hives killed their queen." They use the honey in the restaurant, and last year pulled 25 gallons from the hives.

Change is inevitable, but everyone can rest assured that Fairmont is doing their usual accomplished job of reinventing things while retaining the beauty, history, and integrity of their properties. And with Gavin watching over the food, things can only remain delicious.

Fairmont Olympic
411 University Street
Seattle, WA 98101
206-621-1700

www.fairmont.com/seattle

Connie Adams/September 2016