Assaggio Ristorante Cookbook—Mauro's Passion

No more waiting for "To-Mauro," it's here now!

 If you don't love food, it's hard to understand. How can there be so many cookbooks on the market? Don't people tire of reading yet another recipe? Who keeps buying all these books? The answer, of course, is there are millions of people who can't get enough food information. And many of these people read cookbooks like novels. They can hardly wait to find out what appetizers will start the book off and just how well they'll lead into second courses. How will it end? Sweet or cheesy?

A cookbook is more than a collection of recipes. When it is written by a well-known chef like Mauro Golmarvi, we want it to reflect who he is. At Assaggio, he is warm and welcoming, generous and excited about sharing his love of food with his guests. Does this come across in his book? Absolutely.

For Mauro, food is passion. In his introduction he says “To cook with passion is to create food for the soul. What's the secret? You have to let yourself be inspired, to care, to enjoy the process: it's not sex, it's making love.” He's not shy about sharing his opinions. On antipasto: “Nobody should start a meal without an antipasto. You don't need much, a mouthful or two for each guest, but it is a very important first bite, like the first kiss.” Or, “In wintertime don't insist on fresh figs just because you can get greenhouse-flown-in-from-wherever fruit. No, you're a criminal!  You should be arrested!” You laugh with him, as though you were together chatting about food. 

His recipes are not complex. You can make these at home without flying ingredients in from New York or buying five new tools. Simplicity and freshness are cornerstones. Like most good chefs, he doesn't insist that you follow his recipes absolutely. Find the freshest ingredients and work from there. Quality ingredients are what make dishes work. 

If you're a less experienced cook, don't let the longer recipes deter you. Once you start reading, you'll realize each step is broken down into simple instructions. Many recipes have a photo of the final dish on the facing page. And if it doesn't look just like that when you're done? Eat it anyway! Mauro would.

Gamberoni Saltati

Along with photos, each recipe is accompanied by two wine suggestions. And every so often, you get a Mauro-ism next to a photo. Things like: “Don't overcook pasta for nobody,” or “It's not a fork dish, it's a spoon dish.” You also get tips like “It always tastes better when you mash the whole canned tomatoes with your hand rather than just using canned crushed tomatoes.” (Okay, canned tomatoes can be used if they're high quality.) 

Although he includes sweets for dessert, he talks about serving a small selection of cheeses instead. And to wrap it up, he shares his feeling about wine. “I don't want to tell you your business, but you really have to drink wine with food of passion.” Very clear, very Mauro. 

You'll enjoy this book. Your house will never smell better. You'll support a wonderful local chef who has renewed his lease for another ten years! Thanks, Mauro, for sharing. 

Click here to buy this book

Connie Adams/Fall 2005