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Long Shadows Vintners

A talk with Allen Shoup (photo), a founder of Long Shadows Vintners, is a walk into the past and present of the Washington wine industry. Here he talks about how Long Shadows began, where it is today, and what the future holds.

"The original impetus for the concept was Bob Mondavi in the late 70s. At the time, California was big on the West Coast, but not in New York—it was all European wines. He did a joint venture with Baron Philippe de Rothschild, creating Opus One in 1979," recalls Allen.

"While at Chateau Ste. Michelle (CSM) in 1980, it was clear to me that Washington wine had no reputation. I looked to Mondavi for inspiration, seeing the value in promoting the region above a single label as he had done, and later using the Opus One model to bring Piero Antinori to Washington to make the Super Tuscan Col Solare. Washington is a big Riesling producer and CSM produces more Riesling than anywhere else in the world. German winemaker Dr. Ernest Loosen came to CSM and suggested a partnership following Col Solare. He created the dry Eroica Riesling."

Retiring from CSM and its affiliate wineries, "I wanted to see if I could still help the industry and move Washington to another plateau." He left CSM in 2000 when it was 70% of the Washington wine industry (it still is)—"CSM was the engine that pulled Washington's train of wine." He realized Washington was at a disadvantage because of its youth. We have only a very few second generation winemakers, no third generation, and none of the growth that comes with that experience.

He decided we could bring that experience here by having famous winemakers from around the world come to make super premium wines from Columbia Valley grapes. Each wine made would be a separate company under the Long Shadows umbrella. Allen had been in the wine industry for 24 years, been on many boards, traveled extensively and worked on joint ventures. He knew the people he wanted to bring in, by reputation and/or as good friends. Many who had heard of him were also intrigued with the project. Each winemaker at Long Shadows is a partner in the company that makes their own wine.

Left Randy Dunn (Feather) and right Giovanni Folonari (Saggi)

Shoup created a state-of-the-art winery and provided whatever equipment the winemakers wanted. The winery is located in Walla Walla and produces six reds and one white. The winemaker partners agree to blend their wine, watch over the vineyards where their grapes are grown, establish wine making protocol and review the wines 2-3 times per year. They all have their own winery elsewhere. "It's no surprise that these wines are good: we have the best grapes, the best equipment and the best winemakers. We've all agreed that if we're not making a great wine, we need to dissolve the partnership. From day one, the wines have received great acclaim. There's a lot of good wine being made, but Long Shadows has been extremely consistent. The major reviewers all give 90 points or better. Parker has never given any of our wines anything below a 90.

"We pay top price for our Columbia Valley grapes. 80% of the volume for big wineries is priced around $900/ton. Small wineries like Long Shadows pay $3000/ton. At Long Shadows, we demand half the yield and the best quality grape. With the extra handling, the cost has to go up to get the quality we want.

Long Shadows Tasting Rooms

1604 Frenchtown Road
Walla Walla, WA 99362
(509) 526-0905
 www.longshadows.com
$15 refundable with any red wine purchase

The Library Tasting Room
14450 Woodinville Redmond Road
Woodinville, WA 98072
(425) 408-1608
www.thelibrarywines.com

"Prices for our wines and most Washington wines are relatively low; they're a great value. Basically, we have to buy our credibility. If someone told you the greatest wines were coming out of Arkansas, it would be so out of context you wouldn't really believe or remember it. So we have to buy our credibility with high quality and lower price. Some of the best wines might retail at $125, but if they came out of California, people would pay $300. I've had people tell me there's no way our wine can compare. Even after a blind taste where ours comes out on top, they won't admit it.

"When you research scores, quality and price, Washington rates as the best value of super premium wines. We only produce 1500 cases of most of our Long Shadow wines; maybe going up to 2000-2500 at the most. We don't want to go bigger. It's too hard to source the quality fruit we need, and size creates more work as well. Wine is the world's most competitive product. When you look at the number of labels on the shelf at a store, even if it's 1000 labels, it doesn't represent 1/100th of the wines in the world. If you stop marketing, people forget."

Long Shadows has two tasting rooms. The Walla Walla tasting room is open seven days a week with an appointment. "There is no wine bar; people come in, sit down and we talk with them about each wine they taste in an elegant setting. Dale Chihuly is a friend of mine and there is a Chihuly Room with beautiful glass pieces," explains Allen.

The Library Tasting Room in Woodinville is a unique concept created by Allen, Andy Den Hoed of Den Hoed Wine Estates, and Rob Newsom of Boudreaux Cellars. The Library website allows guests to make an appointment, and walk-ins are also welcome. The cozy room accommodates up to 15 and has leather furnishings and a fireplace. Flight tastings last 45 minutes to an hour. There is a larger barrel room for special events or club meetings.

Has Allen's dream been realized? "By any reasonable criteria, it's been a total success. I've developed many products in my lifetime, wine or not, and always feel that no matter how good a product is, there's always something better. It's my cross to bear that I feel this way." As for the future, there's always a possibility for more wines, although nothing immediate is in the works. "There are a few red grapes that are new and would be fun to work with," says Allen. "And it would be interesting to work with winemakers from Chile on some of their more obscure grapes."

 

Long Shadows Wines

Winemaker(s)

Winemaker's Winery/Business
Poet's Leap Riesling Armin Diel Schlossgut Diel, Germany
Chester-Kidder

Red blend, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon

 Allen Shoup—vision

Gilles Nicault—winemaker

 Long Shadows Vintners

Former winemaker Woodward Canyon, now full-time with Long Shadows
Sequel Syrah John Duval Formerly of Penfolds Grange, Australia
Pirouette Red Blend Philippe Melka

Agustin Huneeus, Sr.

 Melka Cellars, Napa

Veramonte, Chile, and

Quintessa, Napa
Feather Cabernet Sauvignon Randy Dunn 1975-1985 Caymus

Dunn Vineyards, Napa
Pedestal Merlot Michel Rolland Pomerol vintner, and consultant to many wineries
Saggi Italian Red Blend Ambrogio & Giovanni Folonari A. & G. Folonari Tenute, Italy

Allen Shoup was the CEO of Stimson Lane Ltd (Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest and other wineries) for 20 years, and the founder of the Washington Wine Institute. He is a board member of the American Vintners Association, a member of the Board of Trustees of PONCHO, founding chairman of the Association for Wine Accurate Research and Education, a board member of the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center, and American Association of Wine Economists. He is a board of trustees member of the Pilchuck Glass School, and Chairman of the Pacific Northwest Ballet Board of Trustees.

Connie Adams/December 2012

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