By Theresa Oliver
Passatempo Taverna is an institution in the heart of the thriving downtown Walla Walla food and wine scene. Passatempo transports you to the timeless bistro of your dreams. The decor is mid-century wit, and the food makes superb the norm. Chef Sam Shelton is the leader of the restaurant, a role she relishes. We sat down with Sam to explore her culinary path and principles of leadership.
“In high school, I liked the way a working kitchen felt. It's team-oriented like team sports. Kitchens require people of all different levels, interests, and abilities.” Chef Sam continued. “Since a young age I've loved responsibility, I find rewards in discipline, I've always arrived early and stayed late and I liked to deliver a great product. In a kitchen, you can continue to improve and strive for more. Quality is a by-product." Here at Passatempo, the bar is high, without overly complicated ingredients and dishes.
I continually expect more of my team and help them achieve it. My leadership style is based on connecting listening, and assisting people to always improve. I make sure my team feels seen and heard, and I check in with new hires is this what you a quick chat about is this what you were expecting?
Chef Sam's journey to Passatempo began in Walla Walla, then to Michelin-starred work in Avignon, France, San Francisco, and corporate Seattle, where she honed her pricing, purchasing, and spreadsheet skills. “Bon Apetit at Amazon was both a time out from high-energy restaurants and a lesson in the corporate world.
“I give my people the tools to succeed. I hire and train but it's everyone who executes and garners praise. At Passatempo we have a wealth of local treasures to draw on. We love
Hayshaker Farms and have been playing with radicchio in all forms-braised, kimchi, jams, and winter salads. Our bolognese begins as muscle meat, it's marinated for a day and then ground up. It's a three-day process, and ends up being a constant best-seller even in the summer.”
Chef Sam also loves the alchemy of turning flour and water into pasta, focaccia, and pizza. “Pizza is great bar food, it doesn't require your full attention to enjoy it. Pizza and a bowl of garlic-marinated olives make a meal” Mike Martin, owner of Passatempo says, ”Sam is a local who got to go home and return to become a world-class chef. She is a testament to Walla Walla's evolution. We are making world-class wines, so why not world-class food? For me, Passatempo is a legacy project- to create something lasting.”
When you visit Passatempo, the decor creates a feeling of ideal Italy. The service is flawless and friendly, and the bar is among the best I've seen anywhere. The affogato is mandatory and will leave you with a slight Italian accent.
Photos by: Theresa Oliver (bottom left collage by Jim German)
