Each month, a guest chef gives us a tip that elevates their cooking or simplifies things in the kitchen; something a home cook might not know. They also provide a recipe that uses the tip, so you can practice at home. Our guest chef this month is Chef Tanner Smith of Brimmer & Heeltap (Ballard) and The Coalman (Newcastle). While the two are different experiences (neighborhood bistro in Ballard, daytime coffee shop/breakfast spot and neighborhood wine and cocktail bar in Newcastle), Chef Tanner Smith oversees both using local and seasonal ingredients to create memorable food.
Tanner started cooking at a young age with his parents at home and his grandmother during holidays. After high school, he tried to find his calling though a lot of different jobs. A few years passed and he had dinner with his grandmother once again. She asked why he didn't try cooking professionally for a bit to see if he'd like that. About six months later he was off to culinary school after working for an incredible chef in San Jose. After graduating from the French Culinary Institute in the SF Bay, he went on to work in a multitude of restaurants before moving to Seattle 10 years ago. He quickly got his first job at a new restaurant called Market Hall. Shortly after, he went on to help open Dead Line restaurant and bar in Pioneer Square, staying from 2016 to 2021. In the meantime, he also worked as the executive chef for the Maono group with Mark Fuller (Spring Hill). In the midst of the pandemic, he helped open Bloom, a diet conscious fast fine restaurant in South Lake Union. From there he went to help reopen Coastal Kitchen with a new concept, helping remap the menu. He then found a home with Brimmer and Heeltap, The Coalman, and Halfseas Wine.
How to get the rich and thick risotto you want, by Chef Tanner Smith
When cooking mushrooms, never crowd the pan and never add salt before or during the process. Wait until they've achieved the color you want first, otherwise they will release water and steam themselves into mush.
Always denature your rice (cooking with heat for a few minutes) before adding any liquid in risotto. This allows the grains to blister and release more starch during the cooking process. That's the rich and thick risotto we want.
Always season your food in stages (except mushrooms).
Mushroom Risotto
Serves 8
Risotto Ingredients
0.5 lb Arborio Rice
0.75 cup white wine
.25 cup diced shallots
0.25 cup diced sweet onion
0.5 cup diced cremini mushroom
4 garlic cloves, diced
0.5 oz salt
0.5 oz shiitake mushroom powder
2 tbsp oil that withstands high heat (avocado oil)
Mushroom Broth
1.5 qt water
0.5 pint cremini mushsrooms, halved
1 oz shitake mushroom ;owder
2 sprigs of thype
2 cloves garlic, whole
Pickled Mushrooms
0.5 buna shimeji mushrooms
0.5 cup sherry vinegar
0.5 cups water
2 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp salt
1 garlic clove
0.5 tsp thyme
Plating
0.5 lb seasonal mushrooms
0.5 lb pickled mushrooms
1 oz Parmesan cheese
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp heavy cream
Method
In a large pot, let's make the mushroom broth. Add all ingredients to the pot and top with water and bring to a boil, then simmer while the risotto gets going.
Heat oil in a wide pot (rondo), add the rice, shallots, onion, mushrooms, and garlic. Saute for 3 minutes to toast the rice slightly (not looking for color). After 3 minutes, deglaze with white wine. Evaporate alcohol (about 2 minutes). Once the broth is hot, pour ⅓ of the broth over the rice and stir constantly. At this time, we will also add 1 tsp salt and mushroom powder to season in stages letting it thicken before adding more. Create figure 8 designs in the pan to avoid burning the bottom. Once all the broth is in, then we can taste for seasoning. At this point I like to add a splash of wine to finish it and bring the acidity up. This is totally optional. Risotto can be made 3 days ahead of time and kept covered and refrigerated.
For the pickled mushrooms. Place everything except the mushrooms in the pot and bring to a boil. In the meantime, take the base of the mushrooms off (just the root, not the stem) and add them to a large mason jar. Sprinkle a pinch of salt over the top and slightly shake. Once the pickling liquid has come to a boil, pour it over the mushrooms and place in the refrigerator for 2 hours to cool.
For plating, we will use a large sauté pan. Add the butter and your seasonal mushrooms and sear them for 2 minutes on one side, then flip and add 1 tsp salt and stir to finish cooking. Remove from the pan. Add 1 cup of the risotto, ¼ cup pickled mushrooms, 2 tbsp heavy cream and grated Parmesan and heat over medium until hot. Taste for seasoning.
Plating: Spoon 1 cup risotto on plate and top with sautéed seasonal mushrooms and garnish with your choice of herbs.
January 2024
Brimmer & Heeltap
425 NW Market St
Seattle, WA 98107
206-420-2534
The Coalman
6977 Coal Creek Parkway SE
Newcastle, WA 98059
425-698-1371
Halfseas Wine
5413 6 th Ave NW
Seattle, WA 98107
Currently by appointment only while brick and mortar buildout underway.