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Pike Market Charm



Teatro ZinZanni's out-of-tent restaurant

Teatro ZinZanni has officially moved to its new home on the former Redhook brewery property in Woodinville, now called Hollywood Station. They have also opened a restaurant called Wheelhouse in the former Forecasters Public House space. While connected, Wheelhouse has its own executive chef, Pierre Tumlin (photo courtesy of Wheelhouse).

Tumlin has quite a resume: a year as sous chef for Gordon Ramsay, and stints at Aqua, Guy Savoy, RN74, Scarpetta, Spago, Hogs & Rocks, Tailor, Seafire resort in the Cayman Islands. In 2016, he was named Rising Star Chef by the San Francisco Chronicle. It's not his first rodeo.

GM Brooke Balin spent ten years managing Teatro, then five years as the GM at The Golf Club at Echo Falls, popping back every now and then to help out at Teatro. He has also worked at Anthony's and Duke's. He's opened a number of restaurants in his career, so not his first rodeo either.

When remodeling the restaurant, they kept the structure in place (huge fireplace on one wall, angled metal posts to reduce earthquake trauma) but turned it into a dark and cozy space. In the corner where the posts are, they've installed a fire table with four sides (photo below). Each of the four corners can sit four; each space in between seats two. Depending on which side you're on, you can get a great view of the whole restaurant which includes stand-alone tables as well as booths, a bar, and an open kitchen. Lots of dark wood, semi-distressed wood chairs (which are easy to move) and hanging lights that fit the room perfectly.

Ingredients are local and Chef Pierre likes to use everything. In the lamb shank, a nice touch is celery leaves. On the Grilled Confit Heirloom Carrots, he uses a carrot top pesto. The dinner menu offers a number of interesting vegetable dishes (although mainly in starters, not mains): crispy cauliflower with gochujang sauce, sesame seeds, cilantro; whole roasted cauliflower with green curry, pomegranate seeds, nuts, lime; beet laarb with quinoa, crispy shallots, cucumber, serrano chili, Thai citrus dressing; crispy Brussels sprouts with apple-raisin mostarda, and more. Other dishes use pickled shallots, pickled jalapeños, micro cilantro.

Mainly upscale, there are nods to comfort-type foods like Parker House rolls (homemade, of course), their own deviled eggs (with serrano ham and chervil), and Dave's Tater Tot Heaven (depending on your idea of heaven - this has house-smoked pastrami and pulled pork, cheese fondue, fois gras gravy and the aforementioned pickled jalapeños). Naturally, there's a burger (Wagyu).

Salads include a Caesar, an ancient grain, and a Sound sustainable farm greens and herbs (there is much more to this last salad than the menu alludes to, it's full of good things). These are not sized like a side for dinner, they're quite large. And, in fact, so are most portions. The carrots are reasonable, good for two or maybe three if you all just want several bites. The mains are large. Presentation is very nice.

Lamb shank

Lunch is more than a pared-down version of dinner with a number of sandwiches like a mushroom po'boy, an Impossible Meat "meatball bahn mi," and a Montreal-style pastrami Reuben. The squash side at dinner is a squash soup at lunch, the pork chop a schnitzel. A later-night menu is a pared-down list. When summer weather arrives, they may consider a happy hour or bar menu on the patio, but for now there is no official happy hour offering. Keep in mind this menu is seasonal and will change; this is an opening menu.

Beverages include their own take on cocktails, and primarily Northwest and California wines with a few internationals, including all the sparkling wines. There are fewer beer options; along with draft and bottled, there are five rotating taps. A few ciders and kombuchas are offered.

They haven't done much marketing, wanting to build local business first. On a recent Saturday night, the wait for a table (without reservations) was an hour and 45 minutes. Clearly, there's been a pent-up need for this type of spot in Woodinville.

A nicely-done remodel, good service, and an interesting and delicious menu means popularity. We would suggest an early arrival and/or reservations. Just in case.

Connie Adams/December 2019

Hollywood Station
14300 NE 145th Street
Woodinville, WA 98072

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Revolve True Food & Wine Bar


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