Marjorie

Dress-up food in a dress-down setting

Some childhood lessons never fade. Owner Donna Moodie recalls her mother, Marjorie, inviting large groups of people over for dinner, frequently. Everyone was welcome, there was always food for just one more. There was laughter, stories, blender drinks, people sitting on the floor with plates in their laps. Self-made entertainment.

Today, it's Donna inviting people into the restaurant to sit and talk, drink and eat, and enjoy the colorful atmosphere (click here to see her background). Since opening in Belltown in January 2003, she has incorporated lessons from her mom, personal experiences from growing up and working in Chicago and Seattle, her love of design, and her continuing romance with food and restaurants. Marjorie's menu has always been eclectic - why have one type of food when there is so much out there to enjoy?

Executive Chef Isaac Hutchins, most recently from RN74, has embraced the wide-open menu, altering some items, leaving a few sacred cows untouched, and infusing his creative ideas and passion into the mix. His background (click here) includes large restaurants, often in hotels. The idea of 'seeing what comes in' and establishing the menu from that was a welcome revelation. "Food has to be delicious, interesting, colorful, vibrant, with different textures. I want to create different food that's not done elsewhere, so people will come and enjoy it with us. With Donna's Jamaican background, I thought we should do a flatbread with black beans as the base, Cotija cheese, jerk chicken, pineapple, habanero, and cilantro." Donna laughs. "I did not think that sounded all that great. But we agreed that if it didn't work, it was gone. It's one of our biggest sellers."

For a small kitchen, they have an impressively large and diverse menu. Share plates and starters range from Miss Marjorie's Steel Drum Plantain Chips (which can be purchased there for home consumption and found at many stores), chicken tikka masala, house-made pate, gazpacho, chicken liver mousse toast, salads. "I'm from the East Coast," says Isaac, "and vegetables aren't big there like they are here. I can't believe how many side dishes and vegetables we sell here." Their roasted tri-colored carrots with yogurt, cilantro, and za'atar are gorgeous. "Isaac puts so much detail into each dish," says Donna. "He wanted to made a great vegetarian dish and came up with our eggplant and zucchini ravioli (photo) with smoked (because it adds more depth) tomato nage, mascarpone, chanterelles and fava beans. The ravioli is made with pasta flour and spelt flour to get just the right color." Entrees include pork, chicken, a burger, crawfish bisque and corn risotto, steak, fish. Each is a dish of beauty with depth and complexity of flavor. An example is the steak with braised beef cheek and carrot puree, roasted carrot, spring onion, and red wine jus. Products used are almost exclusively organic. "I won't compromise quality," says Donna. "A local producer may not have that label, but I know they don't use pesticides. I'd rather use them than an organic product from California." They use natural, free range proteins with no additives.

While Donna has no formal design training, she loves to 'make spaces look better.' "I go 'junking' with friends to find pieces to use in the restaurant. One of my friends will come over and we'll take all the pictures down, then put them up in a new way. I wanted to make the kitchen wall pop, and we found baskets to put up on the top shelf. I painted all our patio chairs in different colors to brighten things up. I remember reading what Alice Waters said about her restaurant: "What can I do today to improve this?" I think of it all the time; it may be something small or big, but things are always changing." She also consults as time permits.

Their patio is a draw - greenery all around, bright chairs. It's a place that draws you in, with candles and that wonderful summer in Seattle feel. Dining room tables sit on a wood floor under hanging lights; a curved 10-seat bar is a great spot to watch the kitchen. Through the back door and across an outdoor walkway is their private dining space. Just like the restaurant, it's casual and welcoming. When Donna was looking for a new space to move Marjorie when the Belltown building was sold, she wasn't convinced on being part of a new development. "I like funky spaces. The landlord thought I should take the corner space (now Skillet Diner), but I had my eye on this smaller one. We worked with an architect to maximize the space, and it worked beautifully. I acted as general contractor and had friends who did the metal artwork and structural work." Unless you really look at it, you don't realize it's part of a much larger building.

Steak with braised beef cheek

While she's thought about expanding, it hasn't happened. "I like having one place that offers a personal experience; a little jewel. We want to offer a lot at this one location." And that gets back to her entertaining mother. Donna and Isaac are planning parties to make people talk. In early August, they did a Jamaican Feast with ackee (a Jamaican staple), jerk chicken, stewed oxtail, and a whole goat. Late in the month, a wine dinner with Beresan Winery will take place on the patio. They're contemplating an Indian dinner in October for Diwali, the Festival of Lights (Donna lived in India for six months). Take-out catering post cards are being created so people can 'cater' their own party. They'll be able to pick up the ingredients, instructions, and cards that show how to plate and present. Star chef! They're considering cooking classes in the back room.

As busy as they are, you'll feel totally relaxed at Marjorie. Sit back and share a story or two. Maybe even have a blender drink.

Marjorie
1412 E Union
Seattle, WA 98122
206-441-9842

marjorierestaurant.com

Connie Adams/September 2016