Crush

"Romantic" is really the only word that can apply to a couple who paint the outside of their new restaurant the color of cappuccino with milk (exterior walls) and vanilla cream (trim) because it reminds them of their first venture together—an espresso cart. They were married in Carnation at a Private Estate during crush in 2001—what else could they call their catering company and now their restaurant? Crush, of course.

And what have they wrought? The perfect showcase for the food of Chef Jason Wilson. Jason and Nicole have taken a, shall we say, rather scary and somewhat dilapidated house in Madison Valley and refurbished it beautifully, down to the brass fittings in the original double-hung windows. The millwork in the house is original and they've stained it black with deep brown undertones to nearly match the 101-year-old fir floors. Vanilla-cream-colored leather banquettes and nearly glowing white composite stone tabletops offset the deep color and provide a blank slate to display the colors and textures of the edibles.

Dining rooms on either side of the front door also flank a small bar where people can sip a specialty cocktail or glass of wine and watch the work in the open kitchen beyond. This kitchen will handle the "finish" work, while the kitchen downstairs will be used for the heavy cooking. The basement will also hold prep tables, pastry kitchen and, very importantly, wine cellar. "A lot of people like to enjoy their own wines with a meal," says Jason. "So we'll offer some storage space for their cases as well. With concrete walls, two of which are underground, the temperature is perfect. We'll also have a table in the center of the room to use as a tasting area and for winemaker dinners."

For now, the second story will actually be living quarters "Just until we get the restaurant off to a solid start," explains Wilson. "We'll be up early each morning baking bread in the basement." They even carried a 600 pound claw foot bathtub to the second floor because "Nicole has always wanted one." Now that's true love. Especially since it will have to be removed when they eventually move out. At that point, the three small rooms upstairs will be used for private dining for groups of 6-10. Until then, Monday will be private dining night at Crush on the main floor. Ultimately, even the attic will be used—as office space.

When they open on February 22, 2005, they will have room for 41 guests and be open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner. "Probably by summer we'll add a Sunday brunch," says Jason. "We're looking at five-to-six seasonal menu changes, but we're really adding and subtracting ingredients by whim instead of changing the menu daily or weekly. We'll simply be using what's available and fresh. Seasonally, we're already looking at changes for February and March."

"It's often difficult to describe a style of food, so when we were thinking about how to explain what I do, we talked about it being contemporary American, yet European-influenced. We emphasize organic, local and Northwest ingredients," explains Jason. We enjoy emphasizing local producers, organic ingredients, and seasonal products. The family farm on Vashon is growing for spring and will be producing eggs as well. What I like to offer is something that is familiar to people so they're comfortable ordering and eating it, but that also provides an exploration for them."

Examples? Let's talk red wine-braised beef short ribs. Familiar. But Jason will be serving them with gnocchi that has sage, rosemary and savory rolled in. There is black truffle butter involved. The meat will actually be removed from the bone and there will be the incredible braising stock. Or salmon. Familiar. However, this crispy-skin wild King salmon will be dealing with preserved lemon and fennel/green olive salsa and served with salt cod whipped potatoes. And don't even get started on the bacon-wrapped chicken, lightly pounded and topped with ground chicken sausage with maple. Decisions, decisions.

Spending a little time at the bar might help the dining decision process. Thoughtful lighting brings out the glow of the room and assists in clear viewing of the dishes as they are finished and plated. Jason and Nicole have recruited their friends Ryan Magerian & Joe Valencia to assist with designing cocktails.

"We're really a restaurant and aren't looking to be a bar scene," explains Wilson. "That's why we'll have a few specialty cocktails and some call drinks and a handpicked selection of wine. The drinks are really here to be paired with the food. We buy wines from two boutique and quality wineries now and put our own label on them to use as our house wines. In general, we're looking at pricing our wine list in a way that will help to enhance our customer's experience and encourage everyone to return."

Longer term, Jason and Nicole are looking to buy acreage in Zillah to grow their own grapes. Along with the restaurant trademark name "Crush," they've also trademarked the name for a winery. Always looking ahead.

As for a look behind, the tale of how this has all come about is interesting, too. After graduating from the California Culinary Academy in 1995, Jason worked at several restaurants in San Francisco, like Aqua and Flying Saucer. Chef Albert Tordjman at Flying Saucer became his mentor and the restaurant his biggest influence. With just 60 seats and a bar for 5-6 people, it's the pattern he's returning to with Crush.

Wilson also worked for Stars for four years—briefly in San Francisco, then opening the Singapore location in 1996 and Seattle's Pacific Place location in 1998 as the executive sous chef, becoming the executive chef in late April 1998.

Meanwhile, he and Nicole married in 2001 and spent the summer and winter catering at Duck Pond Winery. After a small restaurant consultation, they built the coffee cart "The Morning Grind" and successfully ran it in the lobby of an apartment building in South Lake Union. Jason continued to do personal chef work and developed a loyal customer base for their catering. In February of 2003, they started construction on a leased space in the South Lake Union area for a private events/catering firm called (you guessed it) Crush. On March 9, they held their first event. And the coffee cart became a cocktail cart.

Also working in real estate, Nicole was the finder of the new restaurant location. Considering the state of the house, there was ample discussion before a final decision was made. The house had been vacant four years and was in need of much repair. But they've found hidden jewels, like the brick chimney that had been plastered over and the beautiful hardwood floors. Fortunately, Nicole had developed a team of helpers through the years, from lawyers and advisors to her handy husband and her father who is a contractor.

As for the catering site, the last event will be held December 17, 2004. On December 18, the garage sale begins. Jason is planning on serving chowder and beer and people can purchase all the catering paraphernalia that won't be moved to the new Crush, like platters and plates. The actual kitchen equipment will all be relocated. The catering business will continue, just based out of the restaurant as opposed to having an actual event space. When asked about the old space, Jason replies "The two of us physically created it from the floor up, including all furnishings, and we will have fond memories of weddings, birthdays and ‘underground dining' in Seattle. The building will probably be redone and the landlord says it will be ‘crushed'…." Hmmm.

This romantic couple is one to be watched—with her business skills and his culinary skills, we can count on many more interesting developments.

Connie Adams/Fall 2004