Robert Chadderdon Selections

Off the Beàto* path

So many French wines, so little time...

Living in the Northwest it's easy to keep tabs on what's going on with wine in the region. There's so much out there and it's so readily available, you can taste your way through different varietals from different regions on a nightly basis.

But there are those who enjoy going beyond the Northwest and domestic offerings in search of old world wines and flavors that can't be had in the US. For many, that means French wines.

If you haven't spent a lot of time discovering French wines, it's hard to know just where to begin. A simple crash course reading Wine: 101 Essential Tips will open the door to learning the basics, then you owe yourself a trip to a good wine store like Esquin or Pete's. From there your assignment is to chat it up with the wine buyer who can direct you toward some of the better bottles.

But wait! Here's a little tip few newbies know. There are a number of importers of French wines in the US. Quality varies from distributor to distributor. So now it's important to learn who they are and dial in on one in your conversation at the wine shop.

One of the top distributors of French wines in the U.S. is Robert Chadderdon Selections. The company has warehouses in New York and now on the West Coast in Oakland. Their reputation goes beyond bringing in high quality wines. Mr. Chadderdon himself is involved with many of the labels he imports, participating in day-to-day decisions such as planting, harvest and blending.

We were lucky enough recently to come across a Robert Chadderdon Selections wine dinner being held at Beàto Food & Wine in West Seattle owned by Brandon Gillespie. While Beàto's normal fare is Italian, their chef, Matt Williams, is trained in classic French cooking by way of The Culinary School in the Rockies in Boulder, so it was a no-brainer to get in on the meal. The beauty of a wine dinner such as this is you have a chance to taste numerous selections paired with great food all in one sitting.

Beàto Executive Chef Matt Williams

Seattle is certainly a top spot in the U.S. for great wine dinners, but many are focused on Northwest wines. To come across an event such as this was a treat and well worth the $65 fee (which is less than what you might expect to pay for a single bottle in the Chadderdon offerings).

While Mr. Chadderdon himself was not on hand (he has a rather elusive reputation), the president of the importer, Alan Sobczak joined us at our table. Sobczak noted that in the Bay Area where he is from, wine dinners are going by the wayside because everyone is just too busy. A dinner such as this is worth clearing your schedule.

Robert Chadderdon Selections
30 Rockefeller Plz # 4538
New York, NY 10112
212-332-4999
9401 San Leandro St
Oakland, CA 94603
510-638-5200

Sobczak noted that Chadderdon is a merchant who believes in the classics. Those classics includes whites such as a Domaine Jean Collet 2005 Chablis Le Cru Vaillons that are not too oaky, instead carrying a bit of resin. For reds, you can dig in and discover the yellow chalk and limestone of historic regions such as the Loire Valley by way of Domaine Nerleux 2004 Saumer-Champigny Clos Des Chatains.

And while it may not always be possible to find a wine dinner serving French selections, you can create your own at home. The key with old world wine is to engage yourself in some old world cooking such as a smoked shell fish, French onion soup, rabbit, duck confit and end it with a chocolate souffle. At least that was the menu Executive Chef Matt Williams provided his guests.

Chadderdon selections can be found at better wine stores throughout the Northwest including Esquin, Pete's, McCarthy & Schiering and Pike & Western wine merchants. For a listing of upcoming wine dinners be sure to visit the Seattle DINING! calendar.

*Beàto has closed.

Tom Mehren/May 2008
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